Rolling is one of the first skills a kayaker learns in a step to be safer on the water. The theory is that if you capsize, you skilfully use your paddle to right the kayak and save yourself from swimming, or worse, drowning. Look at any YouTube video or kayaking book, and there are a whole range of proven techniques to roll a kayak, all using the lower body and abdominal muscles. But where do you begin learning to roll a kayak when you can’t grip the boat with your legs, flick your hips and stylishly twist your torso to power yourself upright again?
Kayaking with a Disability
I’m paralysed from T3 (chest level) and have been kayaking for 14 years. I’ve never been able to roll a kayak. I’ve also never fallen in ‘in anger’. Being a paralysed kayaker comes with a double-edge sword—the silver side being that you can’t tense your lower body so tend not to exaggerate any wobble of the boat, thus making yourself less likely to capsize; the black side is that if you do capsize, it’s a real challenge to be able to roll.
I’ve wrestled with my paddle and lumps of foam in a swimming pool quite a few times, but still haven’t figured out how to roll . . . but I know it can be done.
I’ve paddled with two people who are paralysed and can roll a kayak. One had full trunk and hip muscles, and had a bombproof roll. The other is paralysed at T6 and can roll wearing a dry-top, with a paddle float in the back pocket of his buoyancy aid: both help increase his buoyancy and assist the rolling action. Last year, I came across another disabled kayaker, Dean, paralysed at T7, who I learned had developed an extended paddle roll that works well. Feeling a bit disheartened after some unsuccessful visits to the pool, I contacted him, full of envy, to ask for some hints.
Here’s what I learned:
The key to developing a good roll (with or without a disability) is good boat fit.
1. Feet need to be firmly resting on something like a block of dense foam pushed into the foot-well of the kayak. Either cut a series of rigid foam blocks to fit inside the kayak until gaining the proper length (knees slightly bent, feet resting on the block, or adjust the kayak foot pegs to longer than needed, and cut a piece of rigid foam to rest on them. The foam should be secure so it stays in during wet exits.
2. Knees need to be partially bent, best accomplished with a rolled-up piece of soft foam, like an old camping foam mat, which is comfortable and helps to improve the fit of the boat. The knees and thighs also need to have some contact with the kayak to minimise the amount that you move around. Padding the outside and top of the thighs (within the boat) helps achieve this.
3. Hips need to stay centered in the boat as you roll around. This keeps your weight centered and helps to maintain contact with the boat.
4. Proper back and lateral trunk support. Generally, back support needs to go up high enough to reach your functional musculature—where you still have sensation and movement. There is little on the market that is available, and this is the part that requires some creativity. Sea kayak specialists told me of a new seat available that helps to give trunk, lateral, and hip support.
I have improvised with the help of Kari-Tek with closed-cell foam (so it flexes but is also rigid in one direction) that slots down in front of the standard back rest of a kayak, and is held around me with an abdominal support belt (like weight lifters would use to give support to their lower back). This gives me lateral and trunk support, and falls away with me if I capsize and need to exit the boat, and I’ve also fitted a ratchet system so I can move the position forward and backward.
Some people use a type of seat belt or pelvic belt to secure themselves in the kayak, but this has obvious safety concerns and is an extra thing to release in the event of a wet exit—and an extra thing that could potentially jam.
5. Pressure relief. A padded seat is necessary to prevent pressure sores if sensation is impeded in that area of your body. Skwoosh makes some good gel seats and also Yak pads. Find the right thickness of padding to give you protection but doesn’t sit you too high in the boat, compromising balance. Also always check all other points of contact with boat (feet, heels, hips, knees, etc) and make sure they are well padded. I use small gel discs in the heels of my neoprene boots.
Dean does a ‘pawlata’ roll followed by a C to C roll, once his paddle is perpendicular to the water. If you don’t know what these rolls are, surf around U-tube and you’ll soon discover.
The ability to get out of the boat in a wet exit—and re-enter safely—is more critical than anything, so if you’re playing around with foam and adding bits to your kayak, then try wet exits and rescues with adaptations in a safe environment first.
I continue my quest to roll, and can at least get my head out of the water now. I’m sure it won’t be long before I’m upright!
See Related Articles
Learn about one woman's adaptive kayaking adventure in Iceland, in Paddling the Land of Fire and Ice: Icelandic Rafting and Sea Kayaking.
To read more about wheelchair users participating in their favorite sports, see Life Rolls On and Christiaan Bailey: Helping People with Disabilities Pursue Surfing.
